The Arborist Journal

Tree health care is the key. Take care of your trees, feed them every year, irrigate them consistently taking into account rain and drought and prune them correctly. You will have healthy, strong and resilient trees, ones that will bend rather than break.

Yes, we prune trees different from the rest of the country. It’s not because we know better, it’s because our trees are different and grow differently. What I mean is our trees tend to grow wider in this part of the country as opposed to taller. This presents a different challenge both to the homeowner and the climbing Arborist. For the climbing Arborist the climb is more difficult, tie ins could be as high as 4 or 5, the time pruning required much longer because of the distance and the cost equal. There is definitely a large difference between tall trees  than wide trees like our Live Oaks (Quercus virginiana), one of the problems is landscapers playing as Arborists can unfortunately reach these limbs and branches from the ground with there pole saws and extensions. Not understanding the consequences of poor pruning cuts, these amateurs  stimulate growth with excessive branch removal (broccoli cut), pushing the new growth to the tips compromising  the structure and harming the trees health all in the name of cost savings. A tree pruned professionally looks not only healthy, strong but grows for a long time. For a tree owner  the challenges will be on how to educate oneself  and what tree service best has your interest  .

This is absolutely the best time to prune/trim your trees. As a Arborist, with the coming ice storms one must prepare. Pruning especially when done correctly can elliminate most structural issues in trees that can cause failure and the possiblity of losing the entire tree due to excess ice or snow. Fertilizing/treating trees increases viability, a strong tree tends to bend rather than break, so feed them and water them as well.

Have a tree that is not looking too well and wondering where you have to go to get answers? Are you listening to talk show hosts and not getting effective solutions – just ways to treat the symptoms and not the problem? Are you lo0king for a “Tree Guy” or an “ Arborist”? Can’t determine who does what and what it means to you?  It isn’t really that difficult if you  just look at qualifications. There are different kinds of Arborists,  believe it or not. For example, there are Certified Arborists,  Climbing Arborists,  Sales Arborists,  and  the list goes on. All you have to do is look at credentials and experience and ask the hard questions .  What you are looking for is someone who is an Arborist with expertise  in Tree Health Care . They must have all the certifications , and if you want the best for your tree it’s going to be an ASCA Registered Consulting Arborist, or an  ISA Board Certified Master Arborist.  In addition, the Arborist you choose must also be licensed through the state of Texas as a Certified Applicator in order to prescribe and perform treatments. These experts are required to take continuous classes throughout the year in order to maintain these certifications in  science,  rules and regulations, practical applications, tree law and management.

You can find all kinds of information on the internet; some is good, some not so good, and some just bad. We understand it can be confusing, but persevere. When you have someone with experience, credentials and wisdom in the field, you can feel comfortable in the fact that you will get what you paid for.

Pistachio trees are noticiably thin, discolored, heavy seed and early leaf drop, what is happening?

I have seen this in several cases, most much more severe. We believe it was due to environmental influences such as ; coming out of wet winter and a period of some 5 weeks without rain. Most folks had turned their irrigation off because of this and were unaware of the growing situation. As some indicator plants like flowers and/or evergreens began drooping and browning some began watering, others later when plant damage showed up.

Dehydration in trees is one of the most severe disorders a tree can face(life changer), when it occurs, and especially in the spring when moisture is necessary for leaf/twig expansion development, significant harm comes to the tree and opens the tree up for attack of invasive insects such as borers.

It is important to understand that considerable attention now must be given so that this situation does not occur again. What that means, is remove unnecessary barriers that will inhibit progress such as buried or covered root flares and inconsistent water management.

Irrigation gives you that consistency but most systems are designed for turf, trees of course are a high plant with much more complex root systems thus requiring additional fluid. In our field, trees require 10-15 gallons per diameter inch per watering, that is a base line, variables like species tolerances, exposure, slope, drainage, soil type and volume are all taken into consideration.

In most cases it would require due diligence through water management, recovery of health estimation from this type of event, is generally 3-4 seasons, in your case I believe you caught it earlier.

Bottom line don’t miss a watering.

Caterpillars feed by chewing and ingesting foliage. One feeds voraciously on evergreens until the tree is dead, the other on the new tips of deciduous nut producing trees.
Bagworms; The female can lay up to a thousand eggs at a time which can lead to a huge population on a particular host. They emerge from mid to late May to early June. Cypress trees are the evergreens being the main course, Cedar and Juniper trees and shrubs being side dishes. We have also found them on Maples, Chinese Elms, Box elders, Willows and even Live and Burr Oaks. At infestation levels it warrants the application of pesticides to save the tree and or shrubs, otherwise picking them off, the organic approach is sufficient for control.

Fall Webworms; We have two species of webworms in this area the red headed and the black headed, each have 5 hatchings per growing season  and they overlap. The female lays up to 600 eggs that hatch into foliage consuming machines. They begin feeding early in the season around mid May and could be seen all the way up to November. Outbreaks generally coincide with heavy rain and warm sunny days. Webworms feed on the new growth inside the web as they grow larger and more numerous. Hornets and wasps prey on this pest and can be seen shaking the web to coax the worm within range. In most seasons these predators and weather can control populations but as we are seeing this year prey populations are on the down side and pests are taking advantage of this.

It is not recommended to prune out webs or burn webs while in the tree. Upgrade health and vigor of tree by treating with a slow release approved tree fertilizer and systemic medicaments. Proper irrigation is also highly recommended along with tree spraying/trunk inject (specimens) with approved EPA medicaments.

Use only Qualified Certified Arborists who are licensed to prescribe and apply medicaments.

The occurrence is up this year, possibly due to the weather events and results of some of those events. One would have to ask themselves, especially if one were to be a Arborist, “How is it possible that some Oaks fall ill while others remain unaffected”? Infected and dying Oaks could even surround a perfectly healthy Live Oak, asymptomatic, and survive. What we do know is that sap feeding insects such as the nitidulid beetles are a carrier of the disease and most likely some other sucking pests not yet identified. And then there is the human factor, there are high suspicions that landscapers, handymen, homeowners and unqualified tree people not Certified Arborist are part of the problem through movement of infected firewood and pruning equipment.  But what say about root grafting, how is it possible one Live Oak can survive surrounded by many that are infected? Healthy trees have always seem to have a resistance to this disease and insect attack that is why keeping them healthy is important especially when there is Oak Wilt present.

Tree removal, stump grinding and replacement with a resistant species is a choice. But not a very good one if the tree can be saved. Every case and every tree should be treated on a individual basis and diagnosed as such. Treatments and techniques should be determined for the individual needs of each tree, and not as a grouping, this is what Arboriculture is about. But not only should the disease be addressed but the vectors, the soil, the irrigation and the tree health.

A systematic approach to recover trees from this disease, and other disease complexes is crucial in understanding, which techniques, what chemistry (medicaments), and the proper cultural practices necessary for the successful recovery.  Removal is no longer the only choice.

A bastion of tree diversity; What a great place to live truly,especially if you  desire  Arboricultural diversity.In Fairview you can find almost every tree listed in “Ricks Tree List” and even a couple  more that some  folks believe can not possibly survive here. Traveling along a road such as Meandering Way one can’t count the species, but being a Arborist for 30 years I did just that. You’ve always wonder early in the spring what those small white and red flowering trees are out there in the country growing amongst larger trees or in small groves. Those trees are Mexican Plums and Red Buds  and are only the  first of many flowering trees.  To follow in the coming days/weeks you will be viewing our native flowering rough leaf dogwoods, Chittamwoods, Rusty blackhaw Viburnums, Mexican Buckeye and  finally Eves Necklace. But this is not the end, at least not in Fairview as summer grows closer, trees fill out, Soapberry and sumac trees begin their flowering which at times overlap but last several weeks. Small flowering trees are not all there is to offer starting from highway 5 one can enjoy trees, canoping over the ocassional spot along the route, large Pecans, Hackberry, Bois d’arc, Cedar Elm, Green Ash, Red, Bur, Chinquapin Oaks and scattered amongst them, Toothache, Honey Locust and native White Mulberry trees. Approaching Sloan Creek,  American Elm, Cottonwood and Sycamore become the more prevalant species soon to transition as the soil changes to caleche too Red and Bur Oak with one of the more rare species the Bigelow Oak. These trees grow in clusters and are found in very few parts of the metroplex.  Then Post Oak yes I said Post Oak, only a few remain but you can actually see them in River Oaks and Oakwood Estates. The color has not stopped as fall comes on the Persimmon turns yellow like no other yellows you’ve seen, Red oaks and Sumacs red, as the Buckthorns and Possum Haws set bright red fruit that last throughout the winter until the migrating Cedar Wax Wings feast on them.  This is yet typical of a street in Fairview, Texas.

The public is still challenged with the true meaning of tree care. Being that there is so many so called tree companies out there that make this claim. In the state of Texas anyone is considered a Arborist if they own a chain saw, drive a pickup and performed some tree work for one year. Is this not absurd? This truly muddy’s up the water when choosing an Arborist. But when you do your investigating, find someone who is qualified, what that means is a company with certifications and experience to back up their claims, you can actually get what you pay for. Remember, you get what you pay for, cheap is costly, good work is affordable.

I am asked frequently what grows here, what should be planted in this location and what is a good tree? Well I have come up with a list for this area that will best suit your landscape. It is a list of proven trees which I have either planted in my yard or have come across in my career and are proven.

Arborvitae (EG)** Dawn Redwood Pecan (Native)
Arizona Cypress (EG)** Deodar (EG) Persimmon
Ash (Green or Texas) Desert Willow Possum Haw (US)
Austrian Black Pines (EG)** Dogwood (US)* Roughleaf Red Bud (“Forest Panzy”)
Big Tooth Maple Elderica Pine (EG)** Red Cedar (EG)**
Bird of Paradise (Dry) Eve’s Necklace (US)* Red Maple
Buckthorn (US)* Fig Red Oak (Shumardii, Texana, Rubra)
Burr Oak Hackberry (FG) Smoke Tree
Button Bush Hollywood Juniper (EG)** Sumac (Dry)
Calorie Pear Japanese Black Pine (EG)** Texas Ash
CarolinaLaurelCherry(EG)** Japanese Maple (US) Texas Persimmon (Dry)
Cedar Elm
Cottonless Cottonwood Lacebark Elm (FG)***
Kidney Wood Toothache (US)*
Tree of Senna
Chinese Photenia Lacey Oak Vasey Oak
Chinese Pistachio Leland Cypress (EG)** Viburnum (US)
Chinquapin Oak Live Oak Vitex (Dry)
Chitamwood Magnolia (EG)** Western Soapberry
Chitalpa Willow Mesquite Winged Elm
Crabapple Mexican Buckeye (US) Yaupon Holly (US,FG)*
Crepe Myrtle Mexican Plum (US)
Mulberry fruitless
*(US) = Understory
**(EG) = Evergreen
***(FG) = Fast Growing

There are; shade trees, mid size ornamentals, small ornamentals, flowering ornamentals, evergreens, shade tolerant or understory, full sun, and dry site species all of whom have a purpose and reason for thier existance. Shade trees should be afforded enough area to fill into, for example, Live Oaks don’t grow very tall but they do grow very wide as opposed to say Red Oaks which grow tall but not wide. These species can coexist when planted near each other, a skilled Certified Arborist will be able to prune these trees in such away that they will maintain character and sustain a layering effect on your property. Shade trees should be planted before ornamentals to allow for growth prior to planting ornamentals. Generally shade trees grow slower,this takes about 8 t0 15 years to assume character unless of course they are professionally taken care of. I have most of these trees in my yard, but understand this as I have previously mentioned there are planting techniques to be aware of and you must abide by them to be successful. After planting the shade trees and getting the desired future affect you want, then start thinking about ornamentals. When choosing ornamentals always think about what you want to accomplish for example; do you want to compliment the house or the rest of the landscape, do you want it to grow large or remain small, do you want it to flower or turn color? The choises are numerous but a experienced Certified Arborist can save you time, money and anxiety in the long run.